Reviews

Shropshire Magazine
Food & Drink

Jenny Amphlett reviews The Chez Maw Restaurant within The Valley Hotel Ironbridge

Ludlow may have a staggering reputation for its culinary expertise but Ironbridge is, to my mind, one of the best places to eat out in the county.

For a small town it has an eclectic mix of eateries, many offering up a gorgeous view out over the river. The Chez Maw Restaurant, within the Valley Hotel, is no exception to this.

If it is sometime since your last visit to The Valley Hotel’s restaurant then you will undoubtedly be a little surprised when you next drop by. The car area, restaurant and Jackfield Room have been refurbished and the menu overhauled.

Visiting on a balmy summer evening we passed the attractive patio area on our way into the restaurant. Diners and casual drinkers were making the most of the sunshine by relaxing in the attractive area, which leads down to the hotel’s gardens.

We stepped into the main bar area which has been fitted out with a solid oak floor, mahogany furniture and sand coloured walls. Interior designer Emma Pickles has used fresh colours and textures to bring a brighter look to this area. The feel is contemporary, but respectful of hotel traditions.

As part of the refurbishment The Jackfield Room has been created. This room has a more traditional, masculine feel, with a tartan carpet, striped roman blinds and a deeper colour scheme. The bucket chairs and leather sofa add comfort, whilst the private bar makes the room ideal for meetings, gatherings or private dining. The hotel is happy to cater for conferences and functions, including wedding receptions.

But it was the refurbished Chez Maw Restaurant in which we were to dine that evening. The solid oak floor flows through from the bar area, whilst terracotta walls and linen coloured curtains add warmth.

The transformation is not simply a cosmetic one. A new individually priced menu has been introduced. Ideal for people who fancy a lighter meal mid-week or groups with mixed appetites. The restaurant is working hard to maintain the two AA rosettes it has held for the past four years.

After being served delicate canapés in the bar area we were led to our table for two in the restaurant, which overlooked the glorious garden.

The new menu includes standard classics, but with contemporary twists and exciting combinations. A specials menu helps to ensure there is always something new to try every time you visit. Tempted as we were to meion with raspberry sorbet or the classic ceasar salad, we both decided to plump for the tapas as a starter. One of my favourite parts of the meal, it featured lots of different flavours and textures. There were plump olives and cranberries, anchovies, mini wheels of goat’s cheese, proscuitto crudo ham, aubergine caviar, crustini and sun blushed tomatoes served around a bowl of sherry vinegar and olive oil dressing. It was an eclectic rang of strong flavours which, nevertheless, combined well together. A filling choice, it would have satisfied me as a main course.

Main course menu choices included pan seared beef medallions, steamed filled lemon sole and roast chump of English lamb. I opted for the deep fried leek and mushroom risotto cakes served with basil and garlic pesto and roasted cherry tomatoes. Artfully arranged, this vegetarian choice came complete with delicious chunky, crunchy vegetables. My dining companion chose the pan seared fillet of sea bass with spring onion and potato rosti, crab and cucumber linguini and tomato dressing. The generous portion of sea bass was cooked to perfection.

Now, if you like spectacular desserts you will not be disappointed here. My fresh strawberries were served in a sugar frosted Manhattan cocktail glass, complete with homemade peppered sorbet, naughty little blobs of clotted cream and the sort of sugar sculpture that send the audience of the TV cookery shows into raptures. I could have applauded. My chocaholic friend was equally pleased with her layered dark, milk and white chocolate truffle with homemade white ice cream. She said the creamy, gentle flavour had her mouth watering.

After our meal we enjoyed a pleasant stroll through the hotel gardens and along the river. All in all we enjoyed delicious food, plush surroundings and a delightful setting.

Jenny Amphlet